|
 |
 |
| Once the
membrane is centered in the shower, the excess is carefully
folded into the corners. I secure the fold to the framing
with one roofing nail along the top edge. As I move toward the
next corner, I nail the upper edge of the liner at each stud,
always keeping the liner square to the wall and taking care not
to pull it off the floor or to stretch it too tight. |
A roofing nail
secures the fold to the framing. As the rest of the perimeter is
tacked to the studs, the membrane should not be stretched too
tightly |
|
 |
 |
| One of the most crucial steps is
cutting and connecting the membrane to the plastic drain
assembly. First, I mark the heads of the four drain-assembly
bolts where they touch the membrane. |
Then, with a fresh blade in my
utility knife, I make a small slit for each bolt and push the
membrane down over the bolts. Next, I cut from bolt to bolt in a
circle following the inside of the drain. Cuts should always be
made toward the inside of the drain to avoid slipping with the
knife and cutting the floor area of the membrane. |
|
 |
 |
| Before I install the top ring of the
drain assembly, I lift the liner around the drain and make sure
the bottom plastic ring is clear of dirt or grit. I like to
adhere the underside of the membrane to the top of the
drain-assembly plate with a sealant. |
After applying the sealant to both
the membrane's underside and the top of the base plate, I
quickly press them together, place the top ring in position and
slowly tighten the bolts, applying equal pressure on each bolt.
At the threshold, I cut the membrane along the framed opening,
fold it over and nail it to the threshold framing.
|
|
 |
 |
| I'm now ready to put the mud layer
on top of the membrane. For this layer, I use a 4:1 mixture
(sand-to-Portland cement). I mix the cement to a consistency
that forms a ball when compressed in my hand. When I'm satisfied
with the mix, I dump a good amount into the pan. |
With this shower stall, I packed the
cement about 2 in. to 3 in. thick to maintain the
1/4-in.-per-ft. pitch from the wall to the drain that had
already been established. I used a 2-ft. level to straighten the
perimeter of the mud layer. |
| It's a good idea to
establish a level line around the pan first. I use a wooden
float to pack the mud. A straightedge, in this case my 2-ft.
level, and a flat steel trowel let me pitch the mud smoothly and
evenly to the drain. The upper portion of the drain can be
adjusted so that it will be flush with the installed tile. I
keep working the surface to eliminate any voids or low spots in
the mud that can collect water once the tile is installed. When
the mud layer is smooth, evenly pitched and level around the
perimeter, I'm ready to install the floor tile. |
