Cut all the way around the installation horizontally being sure that the depth of the cut is sufficient to cut the reinforcing wire in the mortar. Be sure not to cut the tile above the joint, as they will remain when new mortar and tile are installed.

Carefully remove the tile and mortar below the kerf using a hammer and pry-bar. Sometimes it is necessary to use only the hammer and simply break out the tile and mortar. This is especially true with the mortar shower pan.

Once the old material is removed, the necessary repairs are made to any damaged structures.

At this point, a new shower pan is properly installed.

Once the wall tile is reinstalled, the floor mortar is installed. The floor is then tiled and grouted. 

Click here to see a new shower pan and floor going in.

Note: In this particular job it was not necessary to replace the entire shower as the walls and tile bond were ok.

The reasons for the shower pan failure were:

1.  The pan was constructed of an asphalt-impregnated paper, not three layers of hot tar and 15lb roofing felt reinforced at the corners (as per the standards in the 1950's).   

2.  There was no pre-sloping on the floor beneath the shower pan.   

3.  The shower pan material did not extend 3” above dam height.   

4.  The pan and reinforcing was stapled through the top of the dam.

Note to remember. Tile, grout and the cement mixture ARE NOT WATERPROOF. That is the reason a shower liner is installed.