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You can see
from these photos that there was water damage visible to the surrounding wall
areas. |
The glass and aluminum
shower enclosure was removed and the removal of the shower pan
commenced. |
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A 3 ½” dry cut off saw was used to cut through the tile-work and
substrate in a grout joint 12” above the shower pan. The grout joint was chosen
so that a new substrate and tile could be installed in the old tiles place.
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Note the use
of a shop-vac and window fan to keep the dust and debris to a minimum.
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Next, a
pry-bar and hammer were used to loosen the tile and substrate (drywall) away
from the wall studs.
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During the
demolition, I noted that the MR (moisture resistant) Drywall was used which
was correct for that time. The water
resistant drywall had the taped edge ¼” above the pan flange, there was no
membrane behind the drywall, a skim coat of adhesive had been applied to the
drywall before the bond-coat, and the drywall had been nailed properly. However,
the enclosure was a wet area and the installation had failed due to moisture
wicking up the drywall. |
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Once the
tile-work and substrate had been removed, the rubber drain compression flange is
drilled out to free the pan from the drainpipe. This can vary with installation
and can sometimes be made of lead. |
Nevertheless, once the
flange is adequately drilled out, the pan can be lifted out. Note the
large crack in the pan, which accounted for the leak into the sub-floor. |
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Next the area is cleaned
and vacuumed then inspected to determine whether the sub-floor or wall
studs need to be replaced. |
Usually you can not find
a fiberglass pan that will fit in the original opening. A conventional liner is then installed and
a tiled floor
replaces the original fiberglass unit.
Click to see how this is done.
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In this
case the new tile forms a perimeter around the old tile-work. |
